Nordic or Wild Ice Skating can be defined as outdoor skating on natural ice. Like its winter cousin, cross country skiing, it often involves miles of exploration and touring, not of hills and valleys, but of of iced over lakes, ponds, and rivers. The FAQs below pertain to this relatively new brand of winter recreation and we hope it will be informative.
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The first thing someone new to or unfamiliar with "wild ice" will ask is "Is the ice safe?", or "How thick is the ice?" The first few FAQs on this page will cover these and related important questions.
You should always assume that the ice is not safe until you personally check it for thickness and strength. We do that with ice poles, an ice pike or sometimes with an ice screw. Thickness alone is not a good enough measure of safety. Some kinds of ice can be very thin but very strong, while other types, especially after a thaw, can be very thick but extremely weak. Observing others on the ice also may not be a good measure of safe ice. You should check for yourself with your own tools and make a decision based on your measurements and your level of acceptable risk.
Safety is the goal here. If you are unsure about how to know what is safe, make sure you skate with experienced skaters until you learn from them how to read and measure ice.
Use the ice poles or an ice pike to poke at the ice. A rule of thumb is: One poke to go through, head back the way you came immediately. Two pokes, proceed slowly and carefully and be prepared to back off. Three pokes, proceed and continue to poke. Through experience you will learn to calibrate your pokes to determine how many it takes to go through the ice. You’re trying to assess strength as well as thickness. Thickness can be deceiving. For instance, thin, early season black ice may be stronger than much thicker late season snow ice. Keep poking and practicing.
[30 Second Video, One Method of Checking Ice Thickness]
It depends on the strength of the ice, not so much the thickness. Early season black ice that is 2” thick may be perfectly adequate to support a skater’s weight. Late season candled ice may be 14” thick and wouldn’t be able to support any weight. It’s a judgment based on your use of ice poles or an ice pike and poking to determine strength.
Using ice poles or an ice pike, lift the pole/pike above your head and drive it down into the ice as hard as you can. Keep doing it (in the same hole) until you break through the ice and hit liquid water. The number of pokes correlates to the ice thickness, although not everyone pokes with the same amount of thrust, so this type of measurement is not always consistent. Typically if you can break through the ice in one or two pokes, it is not thick enough to skate on. Some skaters use an ice gauge that you can stick in the hole to more accurately measure the thickness once you have made the hole in the ice. Remember, although thickness is relatively easy to measure it does not necessarily correlate with strength.
Skate with experienced skaters. Watch how they scan the ice and avoid hazards. Ask questions regarding ice features such as color, bubbles, cracks, sounds, textures, etc. Refer to Bob Dill’s lakeice page for in depth discussion of lake ice.
The ice is always smoother on the next lake or in the state over. Become familiar with your local water bodies. Participate in the Nordic skate groups and monitor the ice reports. Ask questions of more experienced skaters. Learn how to read the ice, check for thickness and strength and report your findings.
There are several nordic skate Google groups as well as Facebook groups. All of them link the nordic skating community and offer safety tips, meetup locations and ice conditions. In the Northeast we have several active Google Groups, here are links for some:
Maine Nordic Skating -Google Groups
VTNordicskating - Google Groups
NH Nordic Skating - Google Group
Adki Nordic Skating- Google Group
Yes, but you probably shouldn’t. Skating solo increases risk. Tour skating implies “exploring” locations where conditions may be unknown. This is where risk is greatest. If one is skating in a location with which they are familiar, or has been skated by others before them, the risk is obviously less.
Occasionally, experienced nordic skaters will skate alone, aware of the fact that there is no one to help or get help should they get in trouble. A wise, experienced solitary skater will be much more cautious than if skating with a group, or even if skating with others who may not be capable of helping should they encounter trouble..
Nordic skates, or blades, are longer and are able to smooth out bumps more effectively than hockey or figure skates. Also, because you are wearing ski boots they are typically warmer and more comfortable than traditional skates. The other benefit is that if you need to portage (i.e. cross a section of land or bad ice) you can easily take off your blades.
Nordic skating may be one of the most cost effective recreational activities in terms of pure joy for your money. The costs are similar to cross country skiing. The skates (blades) are less expensive than skis, but you must also add the minimum safety equipment: ice picks or claws, a helmet, throw rope, and floatation. The poles used are different from ski poles and are acquired by most skaters. The good news is you may already have a couple of these items. And skate skiing boots work great with nordic blades. There are FAQs here on each of these items.
There are specialty websites like www.nordicskater.com or https://canada.outdoorxl.com/skates/nordic-ice-skates.html to buy gear online. There are also Scandinavian online sources, only some have english capable websites. varuste.net is an example of one that is multi-lingual.
Brick and mortar shopping in the Northeast can be done at:
Nordic Skater, Newbury, NH
Silver Birch Cycles, Saranac Lake, NY
L.L. Bean, Freeport, ME
Midcoast Sports Exchange, Camden, ME
Outdoor Gear Exchange Burlington, VT
Some gear can be found at other outdoor shops or ski shops. Stores that service ice fishers sometimes carry ice picks/claws as well.
Lake Morey Resort in Fairlee, VT
Silver Birch Cycles, Saranac Lake, NY
Hero’s Welcome in North Hero, VT
There are several commercially available brands of nordic skates at different price points. These include Isvidda, Lundhags, Zandstra, Nordic Skater Viking, Ermine and Skyllermarks. Although the steel used in the blade is of different quality in each brand, all are durable and will provide good service. [Lots More Information Here]
Nordic skates vary in length from 15” (40cm) to 21” (55cm). It’s difficult to say which size would be best for any given individual. The longer blades ride over rough ice more efficiently. There are guides that indicate a person’s height should dictate blade length. Many short skaters use the longest blades with no problem. [More Information Here]
Boots should be comfortable, warm, have a stiff sole, and provide good ankle support. Waterproofness is desired, but not essential. Boot choice is a very personal decision. Some like a nordic ski boot, others a backcountry boot. Different boot companies construct their boots on different lasts (forms) with some companies' boots running narrow, some wide. It’s important to get a boot that fits properly. Obviously, the bindings you choose must match the boot you choose. Nordic skates are machined to accept SNS, NNN or NNN-BC bindings. There is anecdotal evidence that manual bindings are more robust and “fail-safe” than automatic or step-in bindings, because they are easier to release if they get frozen shut.
What is considered essential can be a subjective question. It can depend on the scope of the outing you are planning. That said, any and all the items listed below can save your life no matter where you are on ice. There are more detailed sections in this FAQs on each of the items listed.
Ice claws
Ice poles (not ski poles!) or an ice pike
Floatation (PFD, waterproof backpack, backpack with dry sacks, drysuit)
Helmet [Learn More, 1 minute video](Ski helmet preferred, but bicycle helmet is better than nothing. In either case the helmet should have Mips Safety System technology.)
Throw rope
[Here is a 7 minute video that shows a well equipped skater, except for his lack of a helmet !!]
There are two types of floatation: a personal floatation device (PFD) or a backpack that is either waterproof or contains a drybag. There is conclusive research that proves if you fall through ice and cannot self-rescue quickly, you can survive and be rescued for quite a long while after immersion if you can remain afloat; you may become hypothermic, but you can survive. Therefore, some type of floatation is mandatory.
If using a PFD it is recommended that you use an inherently buoyant device for these reasons:
If you have a self-inflating PFD and want to continue to use it, check the Coast Guard label to determine whether it can or should not be used in freezing conditions. If not labeled for use in freezing conditions, the PFD may not inflate.
Packs are optional equipment, but serious tour skaters will have them because not only do they carry equipment and dry clothing, but they also provide floatation.
There are three options. A regular daypack, a daypack designed for nordic skating or a rolltop waterproof pack. A regular daypack should be filled with a waterproof sack stuffed with clothes that can help by providing buoyancy and reducing the volume of water that can infiltrate the pack.
Packs designed specifically for nordic skating will be more waterproof than a regular daypack and will have built-in features like crotch-straps, skate pockets, throw rope tether and ice claw attachment points. However, they still need some type of internal bladder to provide buoyancy.
Waterproof, roll-top packs do not gain water if immersed and are inherently buoyant. Whichever type of pack you choose, a crotch strap is important to anchor the pack on your back so it doesn’t ride up during immersion.
Comfort is an important consideration. Make sure the pack is sized for your torso and has comfortable hip, shoulder and sternum straps. This is essential if you are serious about touring for long distances.
If you want the highest level of protection if you fall through the ice (in Swedish, a plurr), yes. A dry suit will keep you dry and relatively warm if immersed. That means you won’t experience cold water shock and will increase the time that you have to self rescue.
Gore-tex is the preferred drysuit material as it is robust and probably breathes better than any other breathable membrane. Buy it if you can afford it. A front or rear pee zip depending on your sex is an important feature. A built in hood is useful. Latex or neoprene gaskets are typically used. Both work well although it can take some time to adjust latex gaskets so that they are comfortable. It’s a personal preference.
A drysuit is not essential but adds a whole different level of physical and psychological comfort and can extend your skate season on both ends. Drysuits are a relatively new piece of safety equipment for Nordic skating that more and more people are adopting. You don’t need a drysuit to safely skate, but it provides an increased level of protection.
Ice poles typically come in pairs that can be locked together for ease of carrying. The benefit of 2 poles over one pike is that on bumpy or uneven ice they can be used to push yourself and provide stability if your balance is thrown off.
Ice poles and ice pikes are used to:
The first three reasons are the most important and you cannot do them effectively with ski poles but you can with equal utility with either ice poles or an ice pike. Which you use is a personal decision based on the reasons most important for you. Some wild ice skaters decide on which to use based on the conditions and situation in which they will be skating. If the ice is smooth, they use a pike. If the ice is rough or rubble piles have to be crossed or a severe headwind has to be skated into, they use ice poles.
Similar to Nordic ski poles or slightly longer, fitting just under your armpit. Zandstra recommends you multiply your height by 0.8 to 0.85 to find the correct length for you. An ice pike can be any length but should be comfortable for you to carry and long enough to test ice for some distance in front of you.
Helmets are an essential piece of safety gear for your kit bag. You should not venture out on the ice without one.
First, get a ski helmet. If all you have is a bicycle helmet, use it. It's better than nothing. In either case invest in a helmet that utilizes Mips Safety System technology.
Second, get one that fits you and is comfortable on your head. It shouldn't wobble, but it shouldn't be so tight as to cut off circulation. The chin strap should be padded and adjusted to keep the helmet in place.
Third, if you wear sunglasses make sure they fit comfortably with the helmet and its straps in place. If you wear ski goggles make sure their top outer contour fits the contour of the helmet.
Fourth, wear the helmet correctly. It should not ride on the back of the head like a yarmulke. It should not wobble. It should be comfortable. Wear the helmet like you mean it.
Fifth, if you fall and hit your head on the ice or if the helmet is older than 5 years you should probably replace it.
Sixth, possibly the most important thing is to actually wear the helmet buckled and adjusted properly every time you go on ice. It won't work if it's not on your head or if it’s poorly adjusted. It's not a bad habit to get into and can eliminate one additional concern when venturing out on wild ice.
Knee, elbow, hip, coccyx and wrist pads can all help protect from falls. A foam PFD can also protect your chest.
Yes! There are both disposable and reusable types of hand and foot warmers. They are nice to have, especially in an emergency.
Generally, you want to carry a rope not for rescuing yourself, but for rescuing other people. You want the rope easily accessible on the outside or top of your pack where you can grab it with one hand.
To throw the rope to someone else:
Make sure you’re on safe/thick ice or shore before attempting a rescue. Undo the bag holding the rope (usually cinched or velcroed closed). Hold on to the handle and/or clip it into a carabiner on your pack and throw the weighted end underhand or sidearm to the person you are trying to rescue. Anchor yourself on the ice by digging in with your blades perpendicular to the direction you are pulling. Optionally, use an ice screw to create a fixed point to anchor to. Assuming you’ve successfully gotten the other end of the rope to the person you’re trying to rescue, and they are holding tight to the rope, you can slowly start to pull them out of the water by walking backward.
[1 minute video on throw rope use]
[20 second demonstration of underarm vs. sidearm throw, good and bad rope coiling]
Note that the second, underarm throw did not freely come out of the bag. Here's how to coil a rope so that doesn't happen: [1 minute demonstration of creating a small rope coil for a throw bag]
There are occasional in-person classes on ice safety and Nordic skating put on by members of the skating community. Since scheduling is very dependent on ice conditions, they are rarely scheduled far in advance. The Google groups are the best place to find out about upcoming courses. There is an online course on wild ice skating at https://courses.thingstolucat.com/wild-ice-online-course
[3 minute video: Nordic skating safety video from Stockholm Adventures]
[20 minute video: Dan Spada’s Intro to Skating Gear]
Yes. Everyone in your group should have the complete array of safety equipment. ATGATT - All The Gear, All The Time
[2.5 minute video on self rescue]
[1 minute video of a self rescue]
[15 minute video, skating on thin ice, breaking through, and rescue]
Consider taking first aid training. Wilderness First Responder may be best but any, including Wilderness First Aid will do.Skate with a group. Be clear about trip expectations - distance, speed, ATGATT, no one leaves the group alone, etc.
Buddy check gear at the outset. If group members lack an appropriate gear item, make sure they can borrow one. Exchange cell numbers. Exchange car key locations. Plan escape routes from the ice. Consider identifying action roles in case of an emergency and assign them when one occurs. Be ready to give aid, but don't get in the way. Be ready to take action orders from the emergency leader. Communicate pre-existing medical conditions to the group.
Depending on the extent of injury and shock, call 911 to meet an ambulance ashore. Keep the individual warm.
Know Diana Hank’s Protocols -
Ice hazards are almost too numerous to list. Thin ice, rough ice, pressure ridges, gas holes, cracks, loose ice polygons, off-ice breezes. Please check out Bob Dill’s Lake Ice webpage for a more complete description of the hazards, and how to recognize and deal with them.
The most common place to find pressure ridges is where a body of water narrows and creates a “pinch point”; the ice wants to expand but is constrained. This creates a crack in the ice, and depending on a variety of factors (wind, current, etc) it can drive one plate of ice under the other, or push two plates together so that they push up and create a hump or peak. Sometimes these pressure ridges will re-freeze and are easily navigated. As the ice warms up, particularly on a sunny day, pressure ridges can become more “active” - i.e. continue to move and change. A pressure ridge that was easily crossed in the morning can become impassable later the same day depending on conditions
[More on Bob Dill’s site about how ridges form and how to deal with them 5 minute read]:
Very carefully. Keep a safe distance from the crack and look for a spot where it is more stable - i.e. less open water, less broken ice, less pushed upward and if you can find a spot that looks safe to cross, step over, trying to keep your blades out of the water. Side-stepping over a crack is sometimes more stable than heel-toeing it. Be patient. Don’t accept a site to cross that doesn’t look or feel safe. Be prepared to portage around either end of the ridge on dry land. That’s one of the benefits of Nordic skates.
[3 minute video on cracks, pressure ridges, and how to cross them]
There are three main kinds of pressure ridges: fold-up, fold-down, overlap. Fold-up’s look like tents or pyramids over a crack. There can be open water hidden underneath and on either side of the tent. Fold-downs look like a v-shaped trench in the ice and are usually filled with water. Overlaps occur when one plate overrides another. These are probably the most hazardous as open water, loose polygons and uneven surfaces can all be present but hidden.
[30 second video of ice claws used in self-rescue]
Ice makes noise in several different ways. When ice plates move they can grind against each other. Ice plates can crack from wind or from your own weight. Ice “sings” when vibrations induced by your blades result in sound; thick ice produces lower tones, thin ice produces higher pitches. Even low angle sun on a clear day can make ice plates expand, and clouds and nightime temps can make them contract. Both result in sound.
Skating on rivers can be more dangerous because the currents under the ice can frequently change the ice thickness in less predictable ways. Some of our rivers are dammed and have unpredictable water releases that can leave ice sheets suspended. Also, if you fall in (or “plurr”) there is the possibility that the current can pull you under the ice. Having sufficient flotation should prevent that from happening.
Any snow on the surface of the ice makes it more difficult to see hazards or changes in the ice thickness, structure and/or color (all keys to determining ice safety). Sticky snow can also grab your blades and slow you down. Skating from a section of clear ice into a section of snow covered ice can result in rapid deceleration and tripping.
Recent satellite images are one way to check to see if a body of water is currently/recently snow-covered.
(answers from FB thread- worth confirming)
Waterbury Sports in Waterbury
Ski Rack
Outdoor Gear Exchange in Burlington
Human Power Planet Earth, Saranac Lake, NY
High Peaks Cyclery, Lake Placid, NY
Power Play Sports in Morrisville.They charge $10 and suggest that we drop the skates off and maybe run a few errands before picking them up (never hurts to call ahead). There is a lag on sharpening because they have to switch out the set up for nordic blades. Caleb is the person who does the sharpening and he's typically in on Tuesdays, Thursdays, Saturdays.
Instructions for sharpening your own (with a jig) [13 minute How to Video by Diana Hanks]
(from Jamie Hess)
It's a matter of preference. I'll give you mine; others may disagree.
I start with a dry stone. When grit and metal shavings begin to accumulate on the surface of the stone, I dunk the stone in a jug of water (a gallon milk jug with the top cut off) to rinse the grit off. I avoid oil because it makes a sticky mess.
To keep the surface of the stone smooth and flat, avoid sliding the stone straight forward and back. Instead, slide the stone southeast to northwest (or SSE to NNW) for a dozen strokes or so. Then go southwest to northeast (or SSW to NNE) for a similar number of strokes. Then repeat. This evens out the wear on the stone.
Make sure to sharpen all the way from the tips to the tails of the blades (and vice versa). Just sharpening the midsection will destroy the rocker. Also, after sharpening you'll need to de-burr the edges, and you should have a small deburring stone or deburring device for that purpose.
To check the sharpness of the edges, use the thumbnail test. With the blade upside down, drag your thumbnail downward across the edge. A microscopic shaving should come off your thumbnail, and you should feel the resistance. Perform this test halfway between the tip and tail (where sharpness is key) on both the left and right sides. Do this before and after sharpening in order to see if you've accomplished anything. (If you do the thumbnail test before sharpening, and your blades are still sharp, then you don't need to sharpen them!)